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  • First-generation (G1) Agaricus bisporus isolate; pick as button, cremini or portobello
  • Colonizes grain in 16–20 days at 70–75°F
  • Fruits at 55–65°F on composted manure and straw; harvest 20–28 days after casing
  • Requires a peat moss and lime casing layer to pin; an advanced grow
  • Includes a 16G 1.5" Luer Lock needle and alcohol prep pad; ships insulated
Retail: $19.99
Price: $12.50
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    Item #: PBLC10
    Availability: In Stock
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    Our Portobello is a first-generation Agaricus bisporus isolate, the same species sold as white button, cremini and portobello depending on when you pick it. It's a compost-loving secondary decomposer that needs a casing layer to pin, which makes it a project for growers ready to move past wood and straw species.

    • A. bisporusSpecies
    • G1Isolated genetics
    • 16–20 daysColonization
    • 55–65°FFruiting temp
    • AdvancedDifficulty

    Why grow our Portobello culture

    One culture, three products

    Pick it as a white button, let it go to cremini, or let the caps open into full portobellos.

    Steak-like texture

    Thick, meaty caps that grill, stuff and sear better than almost any other mushroom.

    A grower's next step

    Compost substrate and a casing layer teach the techniques behind commercial mushroom farming.

    Inoculating with liquid culture

    1Warm and shake

    Let the syringe reach room temperature, then shake it gently to break up and spread the mycelium through the broth.

    2Sterilize

    Flame the needle until it glows, let it cool a few seconds, and wipe the injection port with the included alcohol pad.

    3Inject

    Use 2–3cc per quart jar or 3–5cc per 3–5 lb grain bag. One 10cc syringe inoculates about 2–4 containers.

    4Incubate

    Keep it at 70–75°F in the dark. Shake once at about 30% colonization to speed things up.

    Don't skip the casing: once the compost is fully colonized, cover it with a moist layer of peat moss and lime. Without casing, Portobello simply won't pin. This is the step that catches most first-time growers.

    Portobello growing parameters

    SpecDetail
    Scientific nameAgaricus bisporus
    GeneticsFirst-generation (G1) isolated culture
    Recommended substratesComposted manure and straw, peat moss, newspaper
    Incubation temperature70–75°F
    Incubation humidity85–90%
    Colonization time16–20 days on grain
    Fruiting temperature55–65°F
    Fruiting humidity90–93%
    Time to harvest20–28 days after casing
    Casing layerRequired: peat moss and lime, applied after full colonization
    In the package10cc syringe, 16G 1.5" Luer Lock needle, alcohol prep pad
    StorageRefrigerate at 35–45°F; never freeze

    From our lab to your grainRun it into jars with wide-mouth cultivation lids or your own lids with self-healing injection ports. Spare 16G needles and sterile Luer Lock syringes are sold separately.

    Frequently asked questions

    How much liquid culture do I use per jar or bag?

    Use 2–3cc per quart grain jar and 3–5cc per 3–5 lb spawn bag. One 10cc Portobello syringe inoculates roughly two to four containers. Using more doesn't speed colonization much; it just uses up the syringe.

    How long does Portobello take to colonize grain?

    16–20 days at 70–75°F. After the substrate is colonized and cased, expect 20–28 days to harvest at 55–65°F.

    What's the best substrate for Portobello?

    Composted manure and straw. Portobello is a secondary decomposer and wants material that's already partly broken down, not fresh wood. Top it with a peat moss and lime casing layer.

    What's the difference between Portobello, cremini and white button?

    They're all Agaricus bisporus picked at different stages. Young and closed it's a button, a little later it's a cremini (baby bella), and fully opened with dark gills it's a portobello.

    How should I store the syringe?

    Refrigerate it at 35–45°F in the bag it shipped in and never freeze it; freezing ruptures the cells and kills the culture. Bring it to room temperature and shake gently before you inject.

    Why liquid culture instead of a spore syringe?

    Liquid culture is living mycelium from an isolated culture, so it skips germination, colonizes days faster and gives genetically consistent fruits. Spores have to germinate and pair up first, which is slower and more variable from grow to grow.

    Packed to arrive alive

    Liquid culture is living mycelium, so every syringe leaves our lab in a foil-lined insulated mailer. The insulation buffers it against summer heat in a delivery truck and against sub-freezing winter temperatures, so it arrives viable either way.

    Myco Labs liquid culture syringe packed in a foil-lined insulated mailer

    When it arrives: refrigerate the syringe at 35–45°F until you're ready to inoculate. Never freeze it. Bring it to room temperature and shake gently before use.

    Overall Customer Rating of 1 Reviews:
    review-star review-star review-star review-star review-star

    Works! Finally

    Rating:
    review-star review-star review-star review-star review-star
    Pros:
    Cons:
    Its very hard to find "strong" genetics for this mushroom. Other vendors have them but they are weak and do not colonize well or even produce much. This strain is aggressive and did not disappoint! Growing these is a whole different process and I don't reccommend using if you dont have a plan.

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